A wonderful answer to the eternal question — “What do I do with all these apples? ” — apple butter is a sweetened, concentrated, lightly spiced spread that’s smoother than jam and thicker than applesauce and fabulous on buttered toast, thinned with vinegar as a sauce for pork chops, or used to top breakfast goodies like pancakes, waffles or biscuits. The apples are left unpeeled and uncored here to make use of extra flavor in the peels and pectin-rich cores. (A pass through a food mill or sieve after cooking will pull out the peels and cores). As far as the perfect apple butter apple goes there is no such thing. Use almost any variety: This recipe is only improved by mixing and matching. Note also that it may be made over a stovetop or in the oven. It takes longer to make the oven method, but it is worth avoiding the splatter of the stovetop method.

Total Time3 to 5 hours, depending on method

Ingredients

Yield: Approximately 4 cups

• 4 pounds apples (about 10 to 12 medium), washed, unpeeled, uncored, cut into 1-inch chunks
• ½ cup apple cider vinegar
• 3 allspice berries (optional)
• 2 cinnamon sticks (optional)
• 12-inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced (optional)
• 1 star anise pod (optional)
• 1 ¼ cups granulated sugar
• 1 cup light brown sugar
• Pinch kosher salt

Preparation:

Step 1
In a large, heavy bottomed pot, combine apples, vinegar, allspice berries if using, cinnamon sticks if using, ginger if using, star anise pod if using and 4 cups water. Bring to a simmer and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the apples are fully tender and the liquid is reduced by half, 30 to 40 minutes. (Some diced apple will float at first; it will sink and become submerged as it softens.) Remove from heat and let cool slightly.

Step 2
Leave the allspice berries, cinnamon sticks, and star anise pod. Purée the apples through a food mill, or in batches, ladle apples into a strainer or colander, and using a ladle, wooden spoon or spatula, squeeze apples to extrude pulp, pressing seeds and skin into the sieve.

Step 3
To finish on the stovetop: Put the apple pulp into the same large, heavy-bottomed pot, add the granulated sugar and the light brown sugar, and stir until the sugars are dissolved. Cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat, until the mixture is thick, glossy and deep golden brown, somewhere between honey and molasses, 2 to 2½ hours. (After about 1 1/2 hours, it will be foaming quite vigorously. Constant stirring will help, but you might get a few splatters.) To check the consistency, spoon some onto a plate: The mixture will set in about 30 seconds without spreading or wateriness. If not yet done, cook another 8 to 10 minutes and test again. When the mixture has reached the desired consistency, use kosher salt to sprinkle over it.

Step 4
To complete in the oven: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Place apple pulp in 9 inch by 13 inch (3 quart) baking dish. Add granulated sugar and light brown sugar and stir to dissolve. Place in oven and cook, stirring every 30 minutes or so, until mixture is thick, darkly glossy, and a deep, honey/molasses color, 3 to 3 1/2 hours. To check the consistency, scoop a small amount onto a plate: The mixture should set immediately, without spreading or wetness to it. If it does not have reached this point yet, cook another 20 to 30 minutes and test again. Season with kosher salt once you have the desired texture.